Preserving Booty

frustrated-man-hammer-26136802Bring lubricant in a small bottle. WARNING: ETHICALLY UNSOUND in popular areas

  • If you get a nut stuck or an overcammed friend, a few drops of lubricant can really help slide out the stuck gear
  • definitely don’t do this at any crag that gets frequent access, ass the lubricant will make the rock slippery for at least a day.

Double cam pulley system for marginal movement of rock

  • loosen mountain cracks or boulders with 2 pieces of (correctly sized) gear set opposed, and a Z-pulley system to double the pull power
    • this can expand the rock by close to 1mm, sometimes just enough to loosen the piece of stuck gear

Never give up! (How much do you make an hour?)

  • Calculate how much you make per hour, and then judge how much time you’re willing to waste to retrieve stuck gear.
  • ie: I make 15 dollars an hour, I spent 34 dollars for this 5-nut set, so I should spend up to ~20 minutes trying to save my nut
    • if I pass 20 minutes, I can feel at peace with giving up on my nut

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